Friday, May 10, 2013

My Sister Comes Hither

(December 9th-15th, 2012: London) One of the high points of my sabbatical in Oxford was Elizabeth's visit.  For months, I looked forward to having her come and show me the Oxford that she knows from her time as a student here.  Plus, after having not really splurged and eaten out much, it was high time to indulge a bit.  In these regards, Elizabeth's visit did not dissapoint.

The first few days of her visit were spent in London: she was attending a conference while I was meeting colleagues at Imperial.  We would get together every evening and set out to explore the city and the fine dining options that lay before us.

Our first notable stop together was The Bistro Bruno Loubet. First, the dishes:

 Crab Ravioli

Sea Bream and Endive Salad


Smoked Salmon Mousse with Crostini

Quail

 Chocolate Cake

I definitely waited too long to post these pictures, and really have started to learn the lesson that I should jot down notes about what we had.  The Bistro Bruno Loubet was certainly enjoyable, but not the highlight of our culinary expeditions.  It was a good preview of the French food that I would be having in just a few weeks time though.

Before I get to the highlight of the first part of our visit, a few sites sans Elizabeth or food (not necessarily both though).  Our first night together, Elizabeth and I took a short walking tour of the corner of London that we were staying in:

Trafalgar Square, all ready for Christmas.
 
Liecester Square.

The covered market.

The next day, I was largely on my own, after an early run along the Thames, I struck out for lunch and ended up at Roka for sushi:

First up, a spinach salad, as I usually do at a good Japanese restaurant.  Goma Fumi no Horenso to be precise.

Eating sushi after a run is never a good idea...these two dishes are a selection of sashimi, and Kampachi roll: yellowtail, truffle yuzu dressing, mizuna, and pickled vegetables.

Finally, the last two dishes that I ordered: unagi in the foreground, and grilled beef and shishito pepper skewers in the back.  

Everything at Roku was delicious, but, after a run, not the best place to go unless you'd like to run up a bill of several hundred dollars (which I didn't, and thus was a little hungry still afterwards).  The rest of London was infected with the Christmas spirit as one might imagine...

A Christmas mart outside a church by our hotel (The Cavendish) and by one of the good stores that the Queen shops at (Fortnum and Mason).
 
  
More Christmas marts by the eye of London.

Big Ben and the Thames.

A war memorial overlooking Green Park.  The inscription at the bottom reads: "Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it -Pericles"

Green Park

Between Green Park, St. James' Park, Hyde Park, Kennsington Gardens, and the Thames paths, running in this area was fantastic.  So much variety of scenery, and trails galore!  Not what I expected from running in the city to be honest.  I could have happily run in these parks for weeks on end without getting bored.

Hyde Park's gardens

One of the ponds in Hyde Park

The Serpentine, a body of water splitting Hyde Park and Kenssington Gardens

Albert Memorial in Kennsington Gardens

 Wellington Arch, between Hyde Park and Green Park

Okay, enough with the build up, the true highlight of my time in London with Elizabeth was St. John.  Years ago, Elizabeth had given me a cookbook on whole hog cooking - the concept of using every single scrap from an animal possible.  Truthfully, I had forgotten about that book till visiting St. John as it isn't a practical cookbook, per se.  However, it is the cookbook put out by St. John's chef, Fergus Henderson: The whole beast - Nose to tail eating.  As you've probably already guessed, we had some interesting dishes...


Elizabeth making her prerequisite grumpy face while we wait for food.  This is an odd tradition of ours dating back several years now...

 Purple Sprouting Broccoli, Goat's Curd, and Garlic

Razor Clams, Thyme, and Salt Lemon

Buck Rarebit (in American, eggs atop bread smothered in cheese)

Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad.

Snails, Duck Hearts and Lovage

That last dish, I think, was a typical instance of her being curious about something, but wanting me to eat it for her.  Everything was fantastic, though the razor clams were a bit too salty for me (I think it was just me that night to be honest as Elizabeth thoroughly enjoyed my share).  Bone marrow has quickly become one of my quirky favorite dishes...especially with the right bread when it's roasted just right (so as to not be too gooey).  Spread it like jam and it's oh so good...

Next stop: Oxford!

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